The Hidden Gap in "Big and Tall" Fashion: Addressing the Need for Inclusivity

The fashion industry has long been criticized for its lack of inclusivity, often sidelining diverse body types in favor of a more "standard" fit. Among the most notable attempts at addressing this issue is the "big and tall" segment. This term, while seemingly comprehensive, often fails to serve a significant portion of the population, specifically those who identify with only one of these descriptors: big or tall.

Bodies are unique, and each as its own set of needs when it comes to the right fit.

The Challenge of Exclusivity

One of the critical issues in the "big and tall" category is the lack of precision in addressing the needs of those who are either only "big" or "tall." For instance, a tall person who is not broad might struggle to find clothing that fits their height without being overly baggy, while someone who is bigger may find clothes that have the right fit in specific areas while being too long in others.

Defining "Big and Tall"

The "big and tall" category traditionally caters to men who require larger sizes both in width and in height. Retailers that specialize in these sizes offer a range that generally extends beyond the conventional sizing charts, offering options that exceed traditional XL, XXL, or even XXXL sizes. However, the challenge lies in the nuanced needs of individuals within this group.

Determining "Big" Sizes

"Big" sizes typically refer to clothing made for individuals who have larger-than-average dimensions, particularly in the width of the chest, waist, and hips. These sizes often start at a 1X, which is equivalent to an XL, but designed with additional room. Sizes then progress to 2X, 3X, and beyond, with each increment designed to add comfort and fit for broader figures without necessarily adding length. For example, a person requiring a "big" size might have a chest measurement of 52 inches or more, needing  shirts that offer more room in the body but have a standard (or shorter) length. Businesses might use body measurementsto create tailored fits that address specific needs.

Determining "Tall" Sizes

"Tall" sizes, on the other hand, are designed for individuals who have a greater-than-average height, often starting at around 6'02". The emphasis here is on adding length, particularly in the sleeves, torso, and legs, without necessarily increasing the width. A tall individual might need shirts that have longer sleeves or pants with extended inseams to accommodate their height. Many jeans come with a “standard” inseam of 32 inches, which is problematic for someone like me, who stands proud at 5’10”.

Different Bodies have different needs.

Part of the Problem

Part of the problem is that most department stores (with very few exceptions) have employees who are inexperienced and not trained clothing professionals. They treat Big & Tall clothing just like any other category, and therefore may not be very helpful to someone looking for the right fit (Nothing against those employees - it’s not their fault!) The fact is that most people refer to large-sized men’s clothing as “Big and Tall,” which has turned the phrase into a kind of “umbrella” term - non-inclusive, normalized and unquestioned.

Another part of the problem is that many manufacturers use the same patterns they use for regular clothes, but add a bit more fabric and call it “Big and Tall.” The danger with this is that it assumes everyone has a “standard” body shape and does not account for different and unique body types. I get it, it’s ultimately a business and they need to make money. Using a blanket term like “Big and Tall” and calling it inclusive will appeal to a demographic that has been largely ignored in the past, while saving the company money on production costs by using a cookie-cutter pattern for their garments.

My advice.

For reasons mentioned above, many people (myself included) usually opt for online shopping.  I find this to be much more convenient, offering a wider variety of clothes while saving me from the time-consuming and frustrating experience of going to a brick and mortar store only to find two racks full of “B&T” clothes that I’d never want to wear anyways. Of course, online shopping comes with its own set of challenges, so here’s my best advise:

Know your measurements: The first and most important thing to do is to know your body measurements, particularly the chest, sleeves, waist, and inseam.  Many retailers have a size chart that you can use as a reference, and knowing these measurements will prove to be beneficial. (Measurement form sample below, for your reference.)

Mens Bespoke Tailoring Measurement Sheet

Fabric: Choose materials and that are comfortable and offer flexibility. Thicker materials like tweed or wool tend to be bulkier and less flexible, unless properly tailored. Some companies offer clothing with spandex woven in the fabric, which gives the clothes a bit more stretch as you move and can result in a more comfortable fit.

Suit fabrics have different weights and can affect how they hang or “drape,” affecting your overall silhouette.

Read reviews: This one applies to clothes and pretty much everything else you buy online. Read the reviews! Pay attention to customer feedback, as this will give you some insight into what you are potentially buying and what you can expect.

Shop with size-inclusive brands: The number of size-inclusive brands has increased exponentially in the last few years, which means a lot more options.  Brands like Boohooman, Good Counsel or DXL are some decent examples. Shopping with size-inclusive brands can be very helpful, as these brands tend to understand the unique needs of diverse body types and offer a wide range of options that fit well, feel comfortable, and enhance your appearance.

Comfort and fit: The best outfits are the ones that make you feel relaxed, comfortable and confident. Finding the "perfect fit" isn't just about measurements - it's also about feeling and looking good in the clothes you choose, which brings me to my last piece of advice:

LOVE YOUR BODY:  No matter what your goals are, accepting and loving yourself will inevitably result in a confidence boost. You’ll realize that you can have fun and actually enjoy putting outfits together, and those around you will take notice! In my experience, people will respond to your confidence much more than your clothes, but self-love paired with the right clothes will always make you feel more confident. So go out there and own it kings! - JH

Love yourself and have fun with your outfits!

Links to related articles that I found informative: HERE.