A guide to suits: Made to Measure vs. Off the Rack

Midnight tuxedo by Indochino

Off-the-Rack vs. Made-to-Measure Suits: Which One is Right for You?

A well-fitted suit is a staple in every man’s wardrobe, whether for business, formal events, or personal style. When buying a suit, you generally have three options: off-the-rack (OTR), made-to-measure (MTM), or bespoke. While bespoke suits are the pinnacle of craftsmanship, they usually come at a high cost and lengthy production time. This post will focus on the two more common options: Off-the-rack and made-to-measure—highlighting their differences, benefits, and which might be best for you.

Off-the-Rack Suits: The Convenient Choice

What is an Off-the-Rack Suit? Off-the-rack suits are mass-produced and available in standard and Big & Tall sizes (Chest measurement + Short, Regular or Tall), typically found in department stores or specialty menswear shops (Think Macy’s, DXL, Men’s Wearhouse or online retailers like Alain Dupetit.) They are designed to fit the “average” body type based on standardized sizing (e.g., 40R, 50L).

Off-the-rack Suit from a Harlem retailer called Fino.

Pros of Off-the-Rack Suits

1. Affordability – OTR suits are usually more budget-friendly than made-to-measure or bespoke suits, making them an accessible choice for most.

2. Immediate Availability – Since these suits are pre-made, you can try them on in-store and take them home the same day.

3. Variety – With many brands and retailers offering OTR suits, you’ll find a wide selection of styles, fabrics, and colors.

4. Easy Returns & Exchanges – If the suit doesn’t fit well, you can usually return or exchange it ( return policies vary by retailer), unlike a custom-made option.

Cons of Off-the-Rack Suits

1. Fit Issues – Since OTR suits are designed for the average body type, they may not fit perfectly, especially if you have an athletic, tall, or irregular build.

2. Alterations Needed – Most men will require tailoring (e.g., sleeve adjustments, pant hemming) to achieve a better fit, adding to the overall cost.

3. Limited Fabric & Style Options – You can only choose from what’s available in-store, limiting your ability to customize the suit to your preferences.

Made-to-Measure Suits: A Step Closer to Custom

What is a Made-to-Measure Suit?

Like OTR suits, MTM suits are based on an existing pattern but customized to fit your specific body measurements. Instead of being mass-produced, the suit is created after you place your order, ensuring a better fit than off-the-rack options. Some examples of retailers that offer MTM suits are Indochino, Suitsupply, Hockerty and Proper cloth. Typically, the process is quite involved. At Indochino, for example, you can visit a showroom, pick your fabric, color, customizations and all details. Then someone takes extensive measurements to ensure the best possible fit, After the measurements are taken, they have you put on a “try-on” suit which closely resembles your size, and tweak in the places needed. They then use that as a guide to create you suit. after 6-8 weeks, you get the suit delivered to your door, and you’ll have a couple of weeks to bring it back to the showroom for final alterations. This is about as close as you can get to a bespoke suit without it actually being bespoke.

Pros of Made-to-Measure Suits

1. Better Fit – Since the suit is adjusted to your body’s measurements, it provides a more precise fit than OTR suits.

2. Customization Options – You can often choose fabrics, linings, lapel styles, buttons, and pocket details to personalize your suit.

3. Higher Quality Materials – Many MTM brands offer premium fabrics and construction, improving durability and comfort.

4. Fewer Alterations Needed – While minor adjustments may still be required, an MTM suit typically requires less tailoring than an OTR suit.

Cons of Made-to-Measure Suits

1. Higher Cost – MTM suits are more expensive than OTR suits due to their custom nature, but they are still more affordable than full bespoke suits.

2. Longer Wait Time – Since the suit is made to order, it can take several weeks to receive it, compared to the immediate availability of OTR suits.

3. Limited Adjustments – Unlike bespoke suits, which are fully custom, MTM suits are still based on pre-existing patterns, so some body types may still face some fit limitations.

Which One is right for you?

The choice between off-the-rack and made-to-measure suits depends on several factors:

• Budget: If affordability is a primary concern, an OTR suit with professional alterations can be a practical choice (though depending on the type of alterations, they may end up costing around the same, if not more than the suit itself - I have learned this the hard way!!)  If you’re willing to invest more for a better fit and quality, an MTM suit is worth considering.

• Timeframe: If you need a suit immediately for an event, an OTR suit is the best option. If you have time to wait, an MTM suit offers a more personalized fit.

• Fit & Body Type: THIS IS IMPORTANT! If you have a standard build, an OTR suit with minor tailoring may be sufficient. But if, like me, If you struggle to find well-fitting suits, an MTM option will provide a much better result, as the suit has room where its needed, provides a nice “drape” and moves with you.

• Style & Customization: If you want specific fabrics, lapel styles, or other custom features, an MTM suit gives you more options.

Final Verdict

While I can’t tell you what’s the best choice for you, I can say that If you need a suit quickly and are on a tighter budget, an off-the-rack suit with professional tailoring is a solid choice. However, if you’re looking for a more refined fit, better quality, and some level of customization, a made-to-measure suit is a worthwhile investment. I have both, and while I would love to be able to afford a Bespoke or MTM suit, that isn’t always the case. One hack I recommend when opting for an OTR suit is getting one size bigger, than tailoring it down. This usually results in a more tailored and customized fit.

Ultimately, the best suit is the one that fits you well and makes you feel confident, whether it’s off-the-rack or made-to-measure. - JH